“The Evolution of Men’s Styling: From Oil Brilliantines to Matte Pastes” PART 3

5.1 A Change in Formula

By the end of the 20th century, brilliantine begins to lose its ground. It is replaced by a new type of product — hair gel.
This is entirely different chemistry and a different working principle.
Composition (at the base):

— water

— polymers (PVP, later acrylates)

— alcohols 

— thickeners
— fragrance
👉 unlike greasy pomades: gel does not coat the hair in fat; instead, it creates a film that locks the shape in place.

5.2 What it provided
— strong hold

— quick result

— the “wet hair” effect 

— sharp shape
👉 styling became:
rigid, highly visible, locked-in.

5.3 How it was used
— applied to damp hair
— distributed with hands or a comb 

— shaped
— left to dry After drying:

👉 the hair literally “froze” in the given shape.

5.4 Which hairstyles became popular
— slick back with a wet effect
— spiked hair
— hard parts 

— completely locked shapes
👉 the key: the shape remains unchanged throughout the entire day.

5.5 Why it became mass-market
— the product is incredibly easy to use

— provides quick hold
— highly accessible 

— delivers a visually strong effect
Plus the influence of: pop culture, music videos, television.
👉 a new standard emerges: styling must be visible.

5.6 The downsides of gel
— makes hair stiff
— creates an unappealing “crust” 

— looks unnatural 

— impossible to rework the style
— can dry out the hair
👉 there is hold
👉 there is zero flexibility

5.7 Moving Forward
Over time, this becomes exhausting.
A man wants:

— naturalness
— movement

— the ability to fix his hair with his hand
👉 this leads to the next stage: matte products, pastes, clays, and flexible hold.

Conclusion: the 90s were the peak of maximum hold. Gel gives control, speed, and visual impact.
But it is precisely its rigidity that triggers the inevitable transition to modern styling.

6. Modernity — Matte, Texture, and Flexibility

6.1 A Change in Principle
After the era of rigid hold comes a completely different approach.
Styling is meant to look natural, shedding the need to be highly visible.
The focus shifts:

— from shine → to matte 

— from rigidity → to flexibility
— from shape → to texture

👉 now, it is essential to build a complete look, rather than just “lay the hair down.”

6.2 New Products
Several key categories emerge:

6.3 How the approach changed
Now styling is a comprehensive system:
— first the base (spray / preparation)
— then the shape (blow-dryer / direction)
— then the hold (paste / clay / wax)
👉 the product ceases to be a “single solution”
👉 smart combinations appear

6.4 What matters now
— a natural look
— no overloading
— flexibility
— the ability to easily fix the hair 

— absolute comfort throughout the day
👉 hair must move, rather than stand as if “frozen.”

6.5 Why this became the standard
— lifestyle changed
— much more freedom in personal image
— less strict formality 

— the massive influence of street culture and barbering
👉 a man stops blindly copying — he builds his own style.

6.6 Conclusion of the entire article
We have reached a point where a man has absolutely everything:
— products

— understanding
— choices
Only one thing remains — to use it to the fullest.
Modernity is freedom.
Matte. Texture. Flexibility.
You no longer adapt to the product. The product adapts to you.

🖋 Zinenko Nazar Eduardovich