“The Evolution of Men’s Styling: From Oil Brilliantines to Matte Pastes” PART 2
3. Late Europe — Industrialization and the First Products
3.1 Style becomes mass-market
With industrialization, grooming goes beyond the elite. Cities grow. The rhythm accelerates. Scheduled work appears. Now, results matter more than rituals. A man needs to look neat every day — quickly, clearly, without unnecessary actions.
👉 Grooming stops being an art for the chosen few.
👉 It becomes a tool for everyone.
Who sets the tone:
— France — fragrance and fashion
— Great Britain — market and scale
— Germany — chemistry and systematic approach
3.2 Dense formulas appear
Complex aromatic mixtures fade away. They are replaced by simpler, denser formulas — ones that can be stored, bought, and used regularly.
What they were called and where to get them:
— pomatum / pomade — general term for greasy products — hair oil / hair dressing / unguent — in the English-speaking world — sold in pharmacies, perfume shops, and at barbershops — made both by artisans and in the first manufactories
Composition and effect:
— animal fats (lard, lanolin)
— vegetable oils (olive, castor)
— beeswax
What it provides: strong shine, smoothing, basic hold, stable result. This is almost brilliantine. But without a clear standard yet.
Which hairstyles were locked in
— slick back
— side part
— smoothed temples
— short, neat shapes
👉 The main goal is to remove chaos and lock in the shape.
3.3 The search for solutions
But the industry is far from perfect. Formulas are unstable. The assortment is limited. The right product isn’t always available.
And the search begins:
— mixing at home
— using whatever is available
— testing fats, oils, waxes
Sometimes reaching extremes — even industrial oils are used.
👉 This goes beyond the norm.
👉 This is an attempt to achieve a result at any cost.
3.4 The Transition
This is exactly where the foundation of modern styling is laid:
— clear composition
— stable hold
— mass production capability
And this leads to the next stage:
👉 the emergence of brilliantine as the standard.
The 20th Century — Brilliantine, Cinema, and the Cult of the Slick Look
4.1 Brilliantine becomes the standard
By the early 20th century, styling ceases to be a search. A product with a clear formula and a predictable result appears — brilliantine. The name cements itself in culture, and the product itself becomes the foundation of men’s grooming. Cinema shapes the image. It is cinema that makes brilliantine a cult. On screen: perfectly smooth hair, sharp lines, shine. Actors set the standard that others begin to copy. A man no longer invents a style — he repeats an image.
4.2 Where it was bought and who produced it
Brilliantine ceases to be a craft — it becomes a commodity.
Where it was sold: — pharmacies — perfume shops — barbershops
Who dictates the market: Great Britain, France, later the USA. The first recognizable brands and packaging appear. Styling becomes part of the daily kit, like soap or cologne.
4.3 What its composition was:
— mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin)
— vegetable oils
— sometimes wax
— fragrances
What it provided: strong shine, smoothness, durable hold, a neat, “put-together” look.
This is the first mass product that makes styling a standard rather than a skill.
4.4 Which hairstyles become the norm
Brilliantine works for specific shapes:
— slick back
— side part
— pompadour (volume in front + smoothed sides)
Common to all: smoothness, control, shine.
👉 hair must look “perfectly styled.”
4.5 Why it became popular
The reasons are simple:
— the product works consistently
— easy to use
— gives a quick result
— looks “expensive”
Plus the influence of: cinema, music, pop culture.
👉 a standard is formed:
a man must be neat and put-together.
4.6 The limitations of brilliantine
Despite its popularity, the product had downsides:
— weighed the hair down
— overloaded it
— collected dust
— hard to wash out
— provided zero texture
👉 it gave shape, but took away freedom.
However, it is precisely its limitations
that trigger the next evolution.
4.7 Moving Forward
By the mid-20th century, it becomes clear:
shine and a rigid shape alone are not enough.
A man begins to look for:
— lightness
— versatility
— a more natural look
👉 this leads to the next stage: gels, lighter formulas, and later — matte pastes.
🖋 Nazar Eduardovich Zinenko
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